Livraria Lello: Is The Famous Bookshop Worth The Hype?

The hilly city of Porto draws in visitors in their millions, with the charming Ribiera, gorgeous Douro valley and impressive bridge spanning the river. There are countless churches to explore, hills to navigate and, of course, Port to sample.

In a city with lots to see and do, one such place that has been welcoming visitors in their droves is Livraria Lello, a bookshop famous for it’s detailed decorations, gorgeous red spiral staircase and, in recent years, it’s rumoured connection to the world-famous Harry Potter series.

What started as a humble bookshop on the streets of Porto is now an instagram sensation, with people flocking to admire the decor and get their shot on the photogenic staircase. With an entrance fee being introduced in recent years, the question now for people who just want to have a look is, is Livraria Lello worth the hype? And indeed, worth the entrance fee?

History of Livraria Lello

The history of the bookshop on the site dates back to 1869, but it didn’t officially become the Livraria Lello we know today until some time later when it changed ownership and was designed in 1906.

It is one of the oldest bookshops in Portugal, and in 1994 was designated as a Property of Public Interest, recognising its substantial history. Soon after, the bookstore was again restored and remodelled before reopening in 1995.

In 2015 popularity of Livraria Lello had picked up to such a point that the requirement to buy an entrance ticket to the bookshop was introduced. The bookshop these days is often rated among the top bookshops in the world by publications such as Lonely Planet and The Guardian, encouraging more people to visit when they are in Porto.

What’s so special about Livraria Lello?

A bookshop is just a place that sells books, right? Technically, yes, but Livraria Lello not only has an incredible amount of history, but it’s also incredibly picturesque inside.

The bookshelves that line the walls stretch from floor to ceiling, with the top parts of the bookshelves behind glass windows edged with detailed wood lining. In other parts, the bookshelves have small, floating heads hanging out between the books.

Taking pride of place in the centre of Livraria Lello is the iconic red staircase. It’s quite slim as you take the first few steps up, before splitting in two and curving back around on itself to reach the top floor. It’s a gorgeous staircase, with detailed wooden railing guiding visitors up and around.

There are so many photos and videos of this staircase on Instagram, but the most impressive thing about the instagram photos is how they got them with no other people in as the staircase is very busy.

Away from the staircase, the ceiling of Livraria Lello doesn’t disappoint, and certainly lives up to the design of the rest of the bookshop. On the ground floor, the ceiling is an ornate golden pattern, adding to the lavish feel of the bookshop. On the top floor, which can also be seen from certain parts on the ground floor, there’s a stunning stained glass window. Not only does it add light to the shop, it’s also incredibly pretty.

Livraria Lello and Harry Potter

The historic bookshop has long been thought to be one of the inspirations for J.K. Rowling’s Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry in the famous Harry Potter series. Rowling lived in Porto for a brief period in the 1990s, and it’s believed that she visited Livraria Lello during her time there.

Looking at the bookstore’s stunning architecture, the intricate wooden staircases, stained glass, and ornate decor, you can see that there could be some resemblance to the descriptions of Hogwarts in the books. It’s never been confirmed by Rowling that Livraria Lello was a direct inspiration, but many believe so and flock to the bookstore to visit the site of possible Harry Potter inspiration.

The bookshop themselves have taken advantage of this link, and you’ll find dedicated sections in the shop to Harry Potter books and merchandise.

Livraria Lello tickets

Unlike most bookshops, you need to buy a ticket to enter Livraria Lello. It’s clearly signposted from the entrance of Livraria Lello bookshop to the ticket office where you can buy your ticket, then you head back to the bookshop to join the queue out front.

Once inside, you can redeem the cost of your Livraria Lello ticket against the price of a book. So, if you go in and buy a book it’s technically free entry, but if you are just going in to see the bookshop then it’s €8*.

*price correct as of March 2024

Where is Livraria Lello?

The bookshop is just a couple of streets away from the main tourist hotspots in Porto, and you can find it at R. das Carmelitas 144, 4050-161 Porto. It’s close to Porto University, about halfway between Igreja do Carmo and Igreja dos Clerigos.

From Porto’s central São Bento station it’s just an 8-minute walk.

See also: Photos to Inspire a Visit to Porto

Is Livraria Lello worth visiting?

If you’re a fan of interesting bookshops with a cool history, then yes, Livraria Lello is worth visiting.

If you’re going because it’s an instagram hotspot, you might be disappointed when you visit and can’t get any cool shots because it’s absolutely rammed inside. Those iconic stairs are constantly in use and somehow simultaneously blocked by people taking photos.

For the best chance of visiting when it’s a bit quieter, make this your first stop of the day or come around lunchtime.